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Eleven Madison Park, The NoMad Announce Thanksgiving Menus

Eleven Madison Park, The NoMad Announce Thanksgiving Menus


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Feel like spending Thanksgiving dinner at one of New York City's hottest restaurants? Both Eleven Madison Park and The NoMad, run by Daniel Humm and Will Guidara, have finalized their Thanksgiving menus, and here they are:

At Eleven Madison Park, which will seat guests from noon to 8:30 p.m., the $195 per person meal will include foie gras with maple and wood sorrel, heirloom beets with horseradish and rye crumble, organic turkey with butternut squash and chestnut stuffing, Black Angus beef with red wine braised shallots and seared foie gras, and tilefish poached with matsutakes, broccoli rabe, and garlic. Sides will include potato mousseline, red wine braised cabbage, cranberry chutney, Brussels sprouts with bacon, parsnip écrasé, and baked sweet potatoes, and apple with hibiscus and bay will be served for dessert. Reservations can be made by calling (212) 889-0905 or by reserving on OpenTable.

Up at The NoMad, they’ll be seating guests from 12 p.m. to 9 p.m., and the meal will cost $135 per person, or $65 for children. On that menu is foie gras with pear, licorice, and red wine; white truffle and Parmesan risotto; bone marrow-encrusted beef with short ribs and sweet potato; chicken with black truffle, brioche, and foie gras stuffing; and turkey. Sides include buttermilk and brown butter mashed potatoes, Brussels sprouts with bacon and shallots, acorn squash with maple and pumpkin seeds, chestnut stuffing with turkey sausage and sage; roasted parsnips with crème fraîche and parsley, and sweet potato custard with maple ice cream, gingerbread, and chestnuts will be served for dessert. Reservations can be made by calling (347) 427-5660 or by reserving on OpenTable.

In other news, chef James Kent, who started as a cook at Eleven Madison Park in 2007, has been promoted to the role of executive chef at The NoMad. Replacing him as chef de cuisine at Eleven Madison Park will be chef Chris Flint, who’s been with the restaurant since 2008, and current chef de cuisine at The NoMad, Abram Bissell, will be leaving the restaurant at the end of the year.


Chefs and Food Bloggers on the Ultimate Thanksgiving Sandwich

Some of you are in it for the stuffing. Some of you like Thanksgiving for the green bean casserole, I'm sure, and others really do dream about the perfect forkful of dark meat turkey and tangy cranberry sauce. But for plenty of folks, the real point of Thanksgiving comes later: the leftovers sandwich. And while most of us are happy with a little turkey and some cranberry sauce on toasted bread, chefs and food bloggers tend to get a little more creative.

I asked some Thanksgiving leftover sandwich obsessives from around the country about their ultimate day-after Turkey Day creation. Here's what they had to say.

"I love the sandwich. I start with untoasted whole grain bread, whatever we have around, and add a little cold gravy—that's essentially a little spread of its own. Then Duke's mayo. It's the best mayonnaise ever. I'm not from the South but I understand the loyalty there. It's an old school, really good, salty and vinegary mayonnaise. Add the cut-up turkey and some leftover cranberries. You know, my mom is gaga for cooking turkey, she's all about the leftovers—so maybe that's embedded in me—even if I host Thanksgiving, she'll buy her own turkey and spend the whole day cooking it, just to have the leftovers. I tend not to love the whole Thanksgiving meal, but I live for the sandwiches after."—Stuart Brioza, State Bird Provisions, San Francisco, CA

"I want a post-Thanksgiving sandwich that makes you sit up straight, so I'd stick to turkey and add slivers of avocado, pickled onions, and a smoky chili mayo (made with either chipotles or spicy smoked paprika)."—Amanda Hesser, Food52

"Do a sort of sweet/savory Monte Cristo. In the sandwich would be a thin schmear of gravy, sliced turkey, some Chinese mustard, and some sort of cheese like Swiss or Gruyere. A challah-type bread would be good, but white bread would be best. Then, French toast-batter the sandwich and cook like you would French toast. I would turn the cranberry sauce in to a sort of spicy sweet jam to dip the sandwich in. I think even a sprinkling of powdered sugar on top would be good!"—Johanna Ware, Smallwares, Portland, OR

"Although I traditionally like white bread sandwiches, sometimes I like to get real creative. Last year, I took a really hot waffle iron, brushed with butter, and pressed two scoops of cold leftover sage stuffing side by side until crispy, about six to eight minutes. I popped them off and used it to make two open-faced sandwiches. I topped each toasted stuffing half with a little bit of gravy, dark meat turkey, cranberry sauce, and some more gravy. If I really wanted to double down, I'd add some leftover mashed potatoes as well. If there are a few stray brussels sprouts laying around, I'd pop them on top too, but make them extra crunchy first—Michael White, Altamarea Group, New York, NY

"We have decided this year to celebrate the time honored tradition of the Thanksgiving Leftover Sandwich at The NoMad this year. We start with a brioche roll baked fresh by our amazing pastry team. Because brioche is soft and buttery, it's perfect for soaking in all the juices from the turkey and gravy. We then add some cranberry chutney to brighten up the flavor of the meat. Then, we put in a few roasted chestnuts for texture, so there's a little bit of a crunch to balance the juiciness of the sandwich. What really sets this sandwich apart, though, is the butternut squash mustard we use (squash, Dijon, and pickled mustard seeds). It adds that essential pop of acidity, cutting that intensely rich flavor."—Daniel Humm, Eleven Madison Park and The NoMad, New York, NY

"To me, Thanksgiving isn't truly Thanksgiving without turkey, cranberry sauce, and stuffing. When making a leftover sandwich, omitting the stuffing makes sense, but it absolutely must include the other two layering in a spread made from roasted sweet potato and some sautéed shallots really ties everything together. Build the sandwich in the following order: mozzarella, cranberry sauce, sweet potato spread, turkey. Also, make sure you use bread thick enough to stand up to a panini press because throwing it on there to finish is the perfect way to keep the flavors of Thanksgiving going for days afterwards."—Tom Colicchio, Craft Restaurants, New York, NY

"The ideal post-Thanksgiving snack is what I call the Turkey Tamale. Basically, it's a Thanksgiving meal wrapped in the stuffing. First, lay out a sheet of plastic wrap and scoop out some cornbread stuffing into the center. Now flatten out the stuffing into a rectangle roughly four inches by six inches. Pile up turkey and cranberry sauce as well as any other leftovers you like in the center. Now wrap the cornbread stuffing around the filling. Once you have completely encapsulate the filling roll your tamale up in the plastic wrap. Now you will twist the ends until it gets nice and packed together. Remove the plastic wrap and then heat up in a frying pan."—Ian Atkins, Stella Taco, Portland, OR

"The ultimate post-Thanksgiving leftover sandwich starts with the sweet rolls my mom makes for Thanksgiving dinner. They're tender but not too rich and as white as can be. After that I keep it fairly simple cream cheese, mustard (dijon), cranberry sauce, and turkey (dark meat). I serve the sandwich with a side of mashed potatoes and gravy then finish it all off with a slice of Grandma's pumpkin pie. I think it's this plate that I crave more than the actual meal."—Ashley Rodriguez, Not Without Salt

"I confit my turkey legs. It's empirically the best way to enjoy turkey dark meat. My go-to is to make a Turkey Confit Reuben with the leftovers. Juicy confit, tons of Russian dressing, sauerkraut, Swiss cheese, and rye bread."—Scott Dolich, The Bent Brick, Portland, OR

Ever since I learned about the shooter sandwich, my world has been rocked! Imagine, all of your leftovers, packed into a self-contained bread bowl? It's the most genius way to pack turkey and trimmings into a sandwich. Basically, you take a round loaf of bread, hollow out the middle, and layer your leftovers—mashed potatoes, greens, stuffing, turkey, sweet potatoes, and cranberry sauce—inside. Close your bread bowl, wrap it up, press, slice and serve! One tip: I like to layer my greens at the bottom, so the bread doesn't get too soggy from wetter foods and condiments."—Stephanie Smith, 300 Sandwiches

"After a 15-hour day serving Thanksgiving dinners, morning-after cravings rarely consist of extravagant turkey sandwiches, or even any meat at all. I usually bring home some of our chestnut stuffing and use it to create a Thanksgiving version of the Japanese pub fare classic, okonomiyaki. I mix the stuffing with an egg and shredded brussels sprouts put on a stove top griddle and cook until crisp on both sides. Then, I smother it with with Kewpie mayo and bulldog tonkatsu sauce. Sandwiched between slices of freshly baked white bread (or leftover Parker House rolls) with pickled ginger and toasted nori, this one never fails to please."—Nick Pfannerstill, Dovetail, New York, NY

"Thanksgiving is my favorite holiday, and it's the one holiday I don't cook for. Our friends Pheobe and Andre always host and they always prepare two different turkeys—one deep fried, one roasted. With the inevitable leftovers, I like to make an open-faced Croque-Monsieur for lunch the following day. I like layers of flavor so my version of the sandwich starts with a slice of toasted country bread, which I top with warm pieces of dark turkey meat, a couple slices of Emmental cheese—that I'll melt in the broiler—verjus gravy instead of a traditional béchamel, and I finish the whole with a spoonful of rosemary cranberry sauce. It's always such a treat to sit down and eat such a decadent lunch while I reminisce on the best day of the year."—Amorette Casaus, Ardesia, New York, NY

"Obviously turkey and cranberries are must have items in a leftover sandwich. But why not make a hash with your leftover sweet potatoes or mashers, and turkey, maybe with an egg on it? Terrific breakfast sandwich. Use your leftover brussels sprouts as a slaw or quick pickle them to add to your turkey sandwich."—Michael Madigan, Bowery Bagels, Portland, OR

"The traditional Thanksgiving leftover sandwich has a problem. It's already full of starch in the form of mashed potatoes and stuffing. Why do you want to add bread, which also dilutes the flavor of the holiday's main attractions? The Stuffing Sandwich solves this problem. Take two baseball-sized balls of stuffing. Beat two eggs and mix them with the stuffing. Form the stuffing back into balls and put them in a hot skillet with oil. Press them flat and fry them until they're golden brown and crispy on both sides. Now use those stuffing patties in place of sandwich bread! I recommend thin layers of mashed potatoes on both sides to act as a mortar. Add turkey, cranberry sauce, and whatever else you like, and you're in business.—Dan Pashman, The Sporkful, You're Eating It Wrong

"Wonder bread, cold turkey, stuffing, Ocean Spray canned cranberry sauce, and a touch of mayo. This sandwich brings back great childhood memories. I was able to fix it myself, because there was no cooking involved. Still to this day, canned cranberry sauce is still my go to when eating at home. It's probably one of the few canned products I enjoy."—Harold Dieterle, Kin Shop and Perilla, New York, NY

"I like to take a lot of mayo and add it to leftover dressing. Then I pile that onto cold turkey between two pieces of squishy white bread with a little butter-bean chowchow. It's like everything you would have on your dinner plate between two pieces of bread—the full Thanksgiving experience in one bite!"—Sean Brock, Husk, McCrady's, and Minero, Charleston, SC

"I've never understood the appeal of the all-the-leftovers-between-two-slices-of-bread post-Thanksgiving sandwich. To me, a great sandwich is always about balance and restraint, even if we're talking about a sandwich motivated by a glut of holiday leftovers. A hearty loaf of bread with a crackly crust is key—I'd rather defrost and re-crisp a crusty loaf from the freezer than use the standard presliced sandwich bread I keep on hand for my morning toast or tuna or egg salad sandwiches. I don't eat a lot of meaty sandwiches anymore (having grown up on deli meat, I largely gave it up with a few key exceptions), but a roasted turkey sandwich, pulled in nice thick slabs from the leftover bird, on good bread with a little Dijon-spiked cranberry sauce. I can get behind that. I'll probably go all California on it and tuck in some ripe avocado, too, because turkey and avocado just belong together, Thanksgiving or not."—Cheryl Sternman Rule, 5 Second Rule

"Scouring through the remains of the Thanksgiving feast is definitely one of my favorite things to do, whether it's midnight after all of our friends have left and the family is asleep, for breakfast the next day, or for lunch after a morning hike. The ultimate sandwich would be some crusty ciabatta bread topped with turkey leg meat, some of my chanterelle hazelnut stuffing, a potato pancake or two, chopped brussels sprouts, and topped with a duck egg and spicy aioli. Dipped in a cup of warm gravy and accompanied by a glass of cold milk, it would be absolutely delicious. Next step: a nap."—Craig DiFonzo, Lungomare, Oakland, CA


20 New York City Restaurants for Take-out or Dine-in This Thanksgiving

Thanksgiving is easily America's top holiday for feasting, but don't despair if spending your day shuffling pans in and out of the oven isn't your idea of a celebration you don't have to give up on a decadent meal. Whether you're looking to get pampered at the city's fanciest restaurant or you want to get your perfectly cooked turkey and sides via socially distanced take-away, New York City's dining scene will ensure that no matter how unusual this Thanksgiving may be, you'll still have a holiday that's truly something to be thankful for.

Here's a look at what's on the menu around the Big Apple this year, for take-out, dine-in, and even prepared meal kits.

For food lovers, the idea of dining on Eleven Madison Park (formerly voted the #1 restaurant in the world) for Thanksgiving is a dream, and this year, it's one that can come true. This Thanksgiving, the three Michelin-starred restaurant is offering a luxe take-out spread for 4-6 people ($475) or 8-10 people ($975) including an organic, free-range turkey (with cooking instructions from chef Daniel Humm) alongside an array of seven ready-to-eat sides and rolls as well as a pie for dessert. If you want to gild the lily, you can also add on treats like caviar, truffles, wine, and cocktails for a full experience.

The meal kits will be available for pick-up on November 24 and 25, and for every kit purchased, the restaurant will donate 10 meals to New Yorkers in need through their partnership with Rethink Food.

This Soho favorite will be bringing their upscale-cozy sensibility to Thanksgiving this year with a three-course prix fixe menu for $130 per person ($50 for kids 10 and under) from 1 PM to 8 PM. Options will include their famous sticky pork ribs, buffalo-style turkey wings, and wagyu steak tartare with bernaise aioli to start, along with a family-style spread including organic roast turkey with oyster mushrooms, mashed potatoes and gravy, spoon bread stuffing with andouille sausage, and cranberry orange chutney as well as a choice of desserts like apple pie with cinnamon ice cream or pecan pie with pretzel crust and chocolate bourbon sauce.

If you prefer to stick close to home this year, The Dutch will also offer a to-go option for $85 per person, including their roast turkey, mashed potatoes with gravy, brussels sprouts, stuffing, squash, cranberry-orange chutney, and apple pie with cinnamon ice cream.

Ralph Lauren&rsquos The Polo Bar will be offering prepared family-style meals for up to six guests ($595) or up to 12 guests ($995) this Thanksgiving with a menu of holiday classics including roasted Green Circle Farms free-range turkey, calvados gravy, maple-sherry glazed baby brussels sprouts, traditional mashed potatoes, cranberry sauce, chestnut stuffing, popovers with maple butter, pumpkin cheesecake or Charleston bourbon pecan pie. They will also be offering optional add-ons including shrimp cocktail, and their famous corned beef bites as well as wine pairings and bottled cocktails.

Orders must be placed by November 21, with pick-up to be arranged from The Polo Bar.

This Thanksgiving, this Michelin-starred Korean steakhouse will offer a prix fixe feast from 1 PM to 9 PM for $85 per person, including an amuse bouche, a Butcher&rsquos Block feast encompassing four cuts of steak, traditional accompaniments like galbi jjim, kimchi jjigae, rice, and housemade ssamjang, plus dessert.

Additionally, for those who prefer to stay home for the holiday, they're also offering meal kits for pickup and local delivery from November 23-25, including a holiday feast for 6 ($375) with a 10-pound roast prime rib and sides, and Niman Galbi Jjim for 6 ($185) featuring chef David Shim&rsquos USDA prime short rib cooked overnight with sweet soy sauce, shiitake mushrooms, daikon, carrots, gingko nuts and chestnuts.

Whether you're looking to keep things private or celebrate a day out, the restaurant that the luxe The NoMad Hotel has you covered. For the first time this year, the restaurant is offering a special in-room Thanksgiving feast (for up to 8 people) for their suites, starting from $250 per person which will include whole chicken with black truffle and foie gras stuffing, plus all the fixings and a selection of pies to choose from.

If you're craving more of a restaurant experience, the dining room will also offer a three-course prix fixe menu for $170 per person with options like tagliatelle with white truffle, roast turkey with parsnip, sweet potato, gravy & turkey leg roullade, and grilled ribeye, along with sides for the table and a selection of desserts.


The 11 Best Hotel Cookbooks From Across the Globe

We can't jet over to our favorite destinations this summer, but at least our tastebuds can.

While the coronavirus has certainly interrupted our travel plans for the foreseeable future, we've been getting creative with bringing our favorite hotel style home, reading books set in our ideal vacation destinations, and cooking recipes from places we can only dream of right now. And thankfully, some of the world's most renowned hotels and resorts have cookbooks of their own so you can emulate your favorite hotel's cuisine from the comforts (and safety) of home.

Whether you're dreaming of awe-inspiring Art Deco glamour at The Savoy in London, Nobu's iconic sushi rolls, or a wellness-centric menu from Canyon Ranch, these cookbooks will inspire you to get creative in the kitchen and whisk yourself away to a beloved corner of the world&mdashif only for a few hours.

This Assouline title captures the ethereal essence and elegance of the famed resort nestled in the French Riviera. The book is filled with recipes most beloved by starlets, politicians, and moguls alike, all inspired by the fresh seafood, local produce, and high expectations possessed by the patrons of the gorgeous Hotel Du Cap Eden Roc.

Small Luxury Hotels of the World has created three cookbook volumes with recipes from some of the most luxurious boutique hotels around the world. Their recipes offer exotic excursions for your taste buds that are sure to leave wanderlust-inducing aromas in the air. From helping you perfect authentic Valencian paella to mouth-watering osso buco, this book offers a comprehensive culinary and cultural education into the pockets of the world we are so longing to visit.

Canyon Ranch Nourish is the perfect cookbook for health and wellness aficionados to have in their arsenal. Written by the former long-standing head chef of Canyon Ranch Resort & Spa, this book is filled with more than 200 healthy and delicious recipes for every type of cook and eater.

This is one of the newest cookbooks on our list, with 100 of Executive Chef John Williams's masterful recipes served at the eponymous hotel. Now you can bring the opulence, expertise, and celebratory ambiance of The Ritz London's dining room to your own home with delicious dishes for every season.

It's debatable what makes The Savoy Hotel in London so iconic. Is it the unique Art Deco building and decor? The ambiance and locally inspired cuisine? Some may say it's the historic cocktail bar, which the author knows more than a little something about. Craddock came to The Savoy during American prohibition and revolutionized the industry, creating legendary drinks like Corpse Reviver #2. You'll find nearly 750 perfect cocktail recipes in this little book, whether you're looking for a classic or contemporary libation.

Essentially every square inch of the Villa d'Este property in Lake Como is "Instagrammable," and that includes the food. This beloved cookbook was written by former head chef, Luciano Parolari, who held the title for 44 years. This book has been made available to the public in recent years and is worth the purchase even if you've never been to the swoon-worthy resort. The collection of 100 recipes will help you not only master the art of authentic Italian cooking but la dolce vita itself.

Daniel Humm and Will Guidara, the brilliant minds behind not only The NoMad but also Eleven Madison Park, come together to highlight the best of the eponymous hotel's extraordinary cuisine. Plus this book includes a miniature cocktail book in the back to help give you the full NoMad experience, whether you prefer its New York, L.A., Las Vegas, or London location.

Fans of the legendary Hotel Del Coronado will have a special affinity for this cookbook, as it doubles as a culinary history book featuring recipes from its world-famous Sunday brunch, presidential banquets, famous wedding receptions, and celebrity favorites. Like the property itself, this cookbook offers a wide range of dishes that are sure to please all palates.

Como Hotels and Resorts houses luxury properties across the globe&mdashfrom Miami to the Maldives. This cookbook is a best-hits collection of the resort's acclaimed dining experiences, taking readers on an epicurean journey through 147 globally inspired recipes to promote both wellness and satisfaction. Chef Christina Ong shows readers how to make aesthetically pleasing, mouth-watering, nutritious meals that would turn anyone into a health nut.

This classic cocktail book was given a refresh back in 2016, which earned it a James Beard Foundation Award nomination. Caiafa is the bar manager of the Waldorf's iconic Peacock Alley bar and not only provides incredible recipes but offers historic insight into how they came to be, who made them popular, and how our favorite historic figures liked to drink them. Now you have plenty of ways to break the ice as your pour these crowd-pleasing drinks into guests' glasses.

World of Nobu is the latest cookbook from the world-famous hospitality group that spans five continents and tells the story of its history, culture, and iconic recipes. From learning to make simple Vinegared Sushi Rice to seriously impressive main dishes, this book will give you an even deeper appreciation for the people who have rightfully made it famous.


The Wizard of Roz

I’ve never made it a secret that I much prefer EMP’s spring and summer menus to those in fall and winter. Because of last year’s renovations, there were no spring and summer menus. Instead, between April and the June 9th closure, they served a terrific retrospective menu which I wrote about here. When they reopened in October, the fall menu was in place. We had it on my birthday. (Photo set here.) There was one standout, the spectacular sturgeon cheesecake. I did enjoy the main course veal and loved the dessert donut. Otherwise, to be honest, the meal was kind of meh. Even Michael felt it wasn’t their best effort. And I saw comments on food boards from a few people who also found it wanting. However, to be fair, we did speak to someone who said he and his dining companions loved it.

The winter menu was introduced at the beginning of January. We had it on the 26th which is Michael’s birthday. We did the vegetarian version earlier this month though we didn’t go entirely veg.

From someone who usually isn’t bowled over by the winter menus, I can say without hesitation or reservation that this winter menu – both the seasonal and vegetarian versions — was stunning! One of the best, if not THE best winter menu we’ve ever had anywhere.

(Note: Because the lighting during the day makes for far better photos than the dim illumination in the evening, wherever possible, I’ll be using the photos I took during lunch.)

Michael always begins our celebration dinners with his favorite Champagne. But he decided to have it at lunch as well since it paired well with several courses.

For me, my favorite non-alcoholic French Sparkling Cider.

As you can see from the photo above, the box containing the first nibbles at all EMP meals are already on the table when guests are seated: Black & White Cookies with Cheddar and Apple.

House Made Rolls, Cultured Butter Topped with Kombu, and Amagansett Sea Salt were served at the beginning of the meals. I found the kombu too fishy, so at lunch, I requested an additional dish of plain butter.

Along with the bread service Scallop Broth (Seasonal) and Fennel Broth (Vegetarian) were poured at the table. The broths’ flavors corresponded to the first courses.

1st Course (Seasonal): Scallop Live with Sea Urchin and Scallop Butter. (The sea urchin was underneath. Mine did not include it.)

1st Course (Vegetarian): Pear Poached with Almond and Fennel

2nd Course (Seasonal): Caviar Benedict with Smoked Ham, Sturgeon, and Hollandaise

Since I don’t eat caviar, I was served Black Truffle Benedict with Cauliflower and Hollandaise. On the vegetarian menu, it was the 2nd course for both us.

The Benedicts were accompanied by House Made English Muffins.

3rd Course (Seasonal and Vegetarian): Foie Gras Marinated with Squash and Pumpkin Seeds. An incredible work of art and so-o-o-o luscious! Having it again was an absolute must!

Next on the seasonal menu was the fish/seafood course where we got to choose.

4th Course (Seasonal): 4th Course (Seasonal): Lobster Butter-Poached with Butternut Squash and Chestnut (Michael’s choice)

Halibut Poached with Variations of Turnips (My choice)

4th Course (Vegetarian): Lentils with Potato and Garlic

Note: At lunch, Michael wanted to have the halibut. I certainly had no objection to having it again as it was really delicious. So, it was served as an extra course between the 4th and 5th.

5th Course (Seasonal and Vegetarian): Mushroom Tart with Cremini and Black Truffle. A two-part course finished and served at the table. So extraordinary, we were thrilled to have it again.

Note: In addition to these still shots, I took videos with my iPhone. The one in the evening is rather dark. At lunch, I took it in 5 segments. They came out great! They’re posted on my Instagram. To view them, search for @rozrap.

6th Course (Seasonal): Venison En Croûte with Foie Gras and Civet. I don’t usually eat venison, but I love things En Croûte. And as the self-styled Foie Gras Queen, I would never pass this up.

6th Course (Vegetarian): Cabbage Roasted with Apple and Thyme

6th Course Sides:
Carrot Roasted with Buckwheat and Mustard (Seasonal)

Potato Baked with Horseradish and Bacon (Vegetarian) Obviously, not exactly. But since we weren’t being strictly veg, why not?

Leeks Roasted with Hazelnut and Parmesan (Seasonal and Vegetarian)

7th Course (Seasonal and Vegetarian): Tubby Cheese Grilled with Celery Root, Black Truffle, and Winter Greens

There were choices for dessert.

8th Course (Seasonal): Chocolate Tuile with Crème Fraiche Ice Cream and Cranberry (Obviously Michael’s choice)

For me, Butternut Squash with Sarsaparilla and Pumpkin Cake

8th Course (Vegetarian): Michael had the Butternut Squash while I had Pear-Cranberry Donut with Mulled Wine Ice Cream.

As has become the custom, at the end: Chocolate Covered Pretzels with Sea Salt.

We had Kitchen Visits during both meals. The lagniappe at both was this truffle cream-filled cone topped with crunchies and a black truffle.

During the lunch visit, I snapped this photo of the “conga line” assembling that mind-boggling foie gras.

Mega-kudos to Chef Humm, Chef de Cuisine Dmitri Nagi, and their entire team! A huge “Thank you!” to our captains Pam in January and Stephen during lunch for their usual stellar service. And a special nod to Pam and Service Director Kevin Lind who starred in my videos and did an outstanding job serving that mushroom course.

The spring menu starts on April 7th. If you can get there before then, go!

The complete photo sets for these two meals including the wine pairings can be viewed on my Flickr, dinner here and lunch here.

New Year’s Eve 2017 at Eleven Madison Park

Two years ago, when Michael was going to turn 75 in January 2016, he decided he wanted to celebrate entering that milestone year by going to Eleven Madison Park on New Year’s Eve 2015. And so we did! Last year, we went back to celebrating New Year’s Eve as we normally do, the two of us at home in NJ sharing a beef fondue and listening to the WQXR Countdown. When I turned 75 this past October, I suggested to Michael that we do New Year’s Eve again at EMP. And so we did.

Balloons hanging from the ceiling gave the room a festive feel.

Tables held party hats for the gents and crowns for the ladies (closer to midnight, I did spot a few men sporting the crowns), noisemakers, and necklaces made of paper and beads.

What has become the signature first bites were already on the table.

Black and White Cookies with Cheddar Apple

I was poured one of my favorite beverages.

For Michael, Champagne to go with the first two courses.

1st Course: Oyster with Concord Grape and Mignonette Snow

I’m not fond of oysters so, instead, I was served Pear Poached with Fennel and Fennel Broth.

2nd Course: Caviar Benedict with Smoked Sturgeon

Since I don’t eat caviar, I received Black Truffle Benedict with Cauliflower Ecrase. Black Truffles instead of caviar? Hardly a poor substitute.

English Muffins accompanied the Benedicts.

At this point, House Made Rolls, Cultured Butter, and Amagansett Sea Salt were brought to the table.

3d Course: Foie Gras Marinated with Black Truffle and Endive

The pairing for the Foie Gras was a Château d’Yquem. I do like sweet wines, so I “helped” Michael with it.

4th Course: Lobster Butter-Poached with Shellfish and Kale

The pairing for the Lobster was a Corton Grand Cru.

5th Course: Cauliflower with Parmesan, Egg, and White Truffles

Paired with the Cauliflower was a Monthelie 1er Cru.

The arrival of our Engraved Knives (a gift to us on our 45th anniversary in 2013) signaled that the main protein was about to be served.

6th Course: Beef Dry-Aged with Oxtail, Black Truffle, and Chestnut

Paired with the Beef was a Cabernet.

7th Course: Milk and Honey Custard with Bee Pollen Ice Cream

The pairing for the dessert was a Riesling.

There were Chocolate Covered Pretzels, Matcha Tea and Laird’s Apple Brandy for Michael, and another small pour of Sparkling Cider for me.

A delicious meal though I must admit I wasn’t crazy about the lobster dish. But that’s just me because Michael thought it was great. Mega-kudos to the kitchen staff for doing a fantastic job timing all the courses so that we were finished a few minutes before midnight. Servers then circulated with carts bearing glasses of Champagne for the midnight toast.

G.M. Billy Peele said a few words. He thanked the guests for being there and mentioned what an amazing year it had been for EMP what with the renovation closure, Summer House, and the reopening. We then counted down the last 5 seconds of 2017.

At midnight, a saxophonist appeared and walked through the dining room playing “Auld Lang Syne.” Also, as has been the custom, the entire kitchen staff came into the dining room.

Because the renovation didn’t have the space for it, there was no band and dancing as there was in 2015. A minor downside. What was more of a problem was that the heating system couldn’t quite handle the outside single digit temps, so it was chilly inside the enormous space. While the men were unaffected since they were dressed more warmly, all in suits or jackets from what I could see, the outfits most women were wearing, including mine, were of the partying style ergo, not warm. Some women ended up wearing their coats or draping them over their shoulders.

I wrapped my scarf around me and changed back from heels to boots.

Nevertheless, we had a great time and were especially delighted that our captain for the evening was Elizabeth who has taken care of us many times. She is gorgeous and has the most sparkling personality. She took this photo of us.

We loved spending the last evening of 2017 with our EMP family and look forward to being with them often in 2018.

Note: When we left our apartment to go to EMP, the WQXR Classical Countdown was in the middle of playing Number 4, Dvorak’s Symphony No. 9, “From the New World.” When it was close to midnight, Michael checked on his iPhone to see what pieces made the top 3 spots. Holst’s The Planets was No. 3 (Ugh!!), Beethoven’s Symphony No. 7 was No. 2, and — no surprise! — his Symphony No. 9 once again took the top spot.

The entire photo set can be viewed on my Flickr here.

Eleven Madison Park/NoMad/Made Nice Holiday Gift 2017: “This Was the Year That Was!”

The package arrived at our house on December 1st. The return address told us who it was from.

When we opened it and saw the box inside…

…Michael guess correctly what it contained.

For those of you who come here with any kind of regularity, this may look familiar. It’s the same gift format we received last year. We again followed the instructions and opened one box each night except for two times when we opened boxes after we returned from stays the city. Considering the boxes’ contents, I’ve dubbed this year’s theme, “This Was the Year That Was!”

The Tim Tams were sort of like chocolate-covered graham crackers.

They’re “old matchbooks” aren’t as old as the older ones I happen to still have.

We did make it out to Summer House — twice, in July and August. Two dinners each time. And Michael actually had that Garden Gnome cocktail.

We were fortunate to enjoy that BMW experience. Our lovely chauffeur Jean drove us to Summer House and back to Topping Rose House each time we had dinner. So, eight very comfortable rides in the “Ultimate Driving Machine.”

Well, we’ve had the new version, and I don’t think it taste exactly like the previous version. They’ve definitely done some slight tinkering with the recipe. Frankly, I think it tastes better!

We stopped into Todd Snyder’s last week. Michael bought a pair of black gloves that are supposed to work on touch screens (he hasn’t tried it yet) + a black tee shirt.

We went to Mamma Guidara’s twice in 2016 but not at all this past year. These happen to be one of my favorite cookies.

I was hoping it was a chocolate cigar. No such luck. It’s the real thing.

We’ve eaten at Made Nice quite a few times and done take-out as well. Everything we’ve had has been delicious.

Once again, our EMP/NoMad/Made Nice family has put together a truly creative and enjoyable gift. 2017 has, indeed, been an eventful and very exciting year for them. Michael and I have been fortunate to have been part of it and count ourselves lucky to be considered members of this wonderful group of talented and caring people. We wish them all a glorious 2018!

Celebrating Our 49th Anniversary at Eleven Madison Park: The 11-Course Retrospective Menu

You are no doubt aware that EMP is now closed for renovations and has moved lock, stock, and staff to the Hamptons for the summer. When Chef Daniel Humm and Will Guidara made the announcement of the closure, they said it would happen in June. The important question for us was exactly when in June? When we learned that the last service would be dinner on Friday, June 9th, we breathed a proverbial sigh of relief because it meant we’d be able to celebrate our 49th anniversary on June 8th at EMP as we do all special occasions.

The closure announcement also included the news that beginning in April, there would be an 11-course retrospective menu composed of classic dishes created by Chef Humm and his team during the 11 years he’s been helming EMP’s kitchen. Something akin to a “Greatest Hits Parade.” (As I see it, eleven courses would hardly suffice because there are way more than that.) Now, here’s the thing. We dine at EMP once a month and would normally be doing the spring menu — regular then vegetarian — in April and May. With this change, we faced a decision. Should we do the retrospective menu in April and/or May as well as on our anniversary in June? Or should we do it only on our anniversary? After mulling it over, we decided to wait until June 8th so that the menu would feel special.

Because we became regulars right after we experienced Chef Humm cuisine for the first time a few months after he arrived, it was a pretty good bet that no matter which dishes would be on this menu, none would be new to us. Indeed, that was confirmed when he posted on Instagram photos of dishes he considered important during his tenure. There were more than eleven, so which ones would end up on the menu? That question was answered by an article in Surface Magazine published on April 11th, in which Chef Humm was interviewed and which included an “exclusive” look at the actual menu that debuted that very day. We had had our suspicions which ones would definitely be on it, and we pretty much nailed it. Still, there were a few that did surprise us.

In his Instagram posts, Chef Humm included a date for each dish plus for some of them background comments. That sparked an idea for this post. The take-home menu included those dates, so using it as a guide, I looked through all the photo sets of our meals at EMP and found a photo of each dish the first time we had it. So, for each dish, I’ll put up the photo I took on June 8th with, in most cases, a quote from Chef Humm followed by the photo of the dish I took the first time we had it with comments from me. (In a few instances, there will be more than one photo related to a dish.)

We walked through the revolving doors on Thursday, June 8th, promptly at 8 p.m., received warm congratulations from the reception staff, and were escorted to our table where an envelope with the card pictured at the top of this post awaited us. Our captain for the evening was Steven Kelly who’s been at EMP for many years. With regard to the menu, the only thing we had to decide was which of three main course choices we wanted: chicken, suckling pig or, of course, Chef Humm’s signature duck. Place your bets, ladies and gentlemen! And then stick around to find out which we chose. Michael also consulted with our sommelier Andrew about wine pairings.

We began with Andrew pouring my favorite non-alcoholic French Sparkling Cider and for Michael, a half-bottle of Krug, the Champagne he always has on celebratory occasions.

The meal started with Gougères with Grated Gruyère (2006).

June 8, 2017

I began taking food photos in 2008 but didn’t start posting restaurant sets on Flickr until 2009. Although we became regulars immediately after we first tasted Chef Humm’s extraordinary cuisine in early 2007, the first photo I took of the gougères was on Michael’s birthday, January 26, 2009 — the amuse on Chef Humm’s first 11-course Gourmand Dinner. Unfortunately, that photo turned out blurry, so here’s a clear one from the next time we had them.

April 23, 2009

1st Course: Sea Urchin Cappuccino With Peekytoe Crab and Cauliflower (2006)
Daniel Humm: “This dish was the first amuse bouche I added when I took over the kitchen at Eleven Madison Park in 2006. Becoming a guest favorite, it appeared thereafter on multiple menus in different iterations.”

June 8, 2017

July 22, 2009

2nd Course: Little Neck Clam Clambake with Velouté and Parker House Rolls (2011)
DH: “This dish was created after a trip that Will Guidara and I took to Tokyo. [It’s] roughly based on shabu-shabu. This was our first communal course and more importantly, the first that played with the senses – specifically with the steaming of seawater. It was also the first dish that truly tied back to our region and to NY cuisine. The dish holds a lot of importance to us as the initial shared experience that has our guests reaching in the middle of the table.”

June 8, 2017

When the Clambake was first introduced, it came with little corn breads, not Parker House rolls.

September 11, 2011

3rd Course: Beet Salad with Goat Cheese (2008)
DH: “Beets have been served in different forms at EMP for many years.”

June 8, 2017

At our first Chef Humm dinner, the meal started with a parade of amuses the likes of which we’d never experienced before. So much so that we kept asking, “Has the main meal started yet?!” One of the amuses was beets cut in various sized squares and rectangles and arranged on the plate in such a way that it reminded us of Stonehenge. Too bad I wasn’t taking photos then. The precision was incredible and the image remains indelibly in our memory. The beets plated for the retrospective dinner did remind us of it but was different. My first photo shows a radically different plating.

October 24, 2010

4th Course: Prawn Roulade with Avocado and Yogurt (2007)
DH: “During this chapter of EMP it was less about where ingredients were from and more about showcasing technique. The prawn roulade involved a very lengthy process that was extremely temperamental. Every step in developing this dish was crucial to its success. Because of our revolutionary approach to crafting the roulade, it quickly became a signature on the menu early on and a crowd favorite.”

June 8, 2017

It totally knocked our gustatory socks off the first time we had it (before I began taking photos) and is one of Michael’s all-time EMP favorites. During one of our lunches last year, he happened to mention to our captain how much he loved it, and that it had been a long time since it had been on the menu. Next thing we know… Voilà! It arrived at our table! And this past January, Chef de Cuisine Dmitri Magi surprised him with it on his birthday. The recipe is in the Eleven Madison Park Cookbook. Foolishly, I once tried making it. Disaster! When I told Chef Humm, he said, “Leave it to us!”

5th Course: Foie Gras Torchon with Maple Syrup and Pain d’Epices (2004)
DH: “The Foie Gras was one of the courses served to Danny Meyer at Campton Place in San Francisco (my first position in America) and I, to this day, credit it as being one of the dishes that landed me my job at Eleven Madison Park. In many ways this variation on Foie Gras represents all the elements of our ‘new’ style in its simplicity and fundamental values. But at that time I couldn’t fully recognize it.” (Note: At that time Meyer owned EMP.)

June 8, 2017

As far as I know, the first time it was served at EMP was last year. Michael had it on his birthday while I had it two months later in the bar.

January 26, 2016

6th Course: Carrot Tartare with Rye Toast and Condiments (2012)
DH: “This is probably our most talked about dish due to its innovation and unexpected nature. It came at a time when restaurants were moving in the direction of vegetable-forward cuisine couples with the idea of shared communal courses. The shock value of placing the metal grinder on the table without saying anything only to return with a bundle of carrots instead of the expected ground beef really helped it capture the attention of a large audience. It’s a dish where history and agriculture come together beautifully.”

June 8, 2017

Once it made its debuted, it remained on the menu for a lo-o-o-ng time. Though we liked it, we had it so often that we finally asked for a substitute. It has now been off the menu for a few years, so we enjoyed experiencing it again.

September 21, 2012

7th Course: Turbot, Poached Zucchini and Squash Blossom (2007)
DH: “This dish pays homage to the scaling technique of Frédy Girardet and Joël Robuchon…. [It and the roulade] ended up being breakthroughs for the restaurant.”

June 8, 2017

July 6, 2013

8th Course: Winter in Provence – Black Truffle, Celery Root, Potato and Chevre Frais (2009)
DH: “Provence is most famous for its summers. In fact, I spent most of my childhood summering there. However, what people don’t know is that winters are amazing there as well. During the coldest months of the year, amazing ingredients like black truffles, olive oil, potatoes, and chevre are abundant. This dish explored soft textures and questioning what guests think food should be. We did this, however, with familiar flavors which allowed us to push what guests would be comfortable with while leaving them with a clear point of reference. As well during this time, we didn’t yet have a sense of place. We were a restaurant in New York but not of New York.”

June 8, 2017

January 26, 2010

Our Engraved Knives

These engraved knives were a gift for our 45th anniversary (June 8, 2013). They’ve been stored at the restaurant and each time we’ve dined since then, they’ve been brought out for the main course. We’ve heard that when the new restaurant opens, there will probably be new flatware. If so, I presume we’ll be given our knives to take home.

So, what did you guess we chose for the main course? I’m guessing you guessed the duck since it is Chef Humm’s famous signature. Wrong! We’ve had it a gazillion times starting from its introduction in 2009 when the duck was carved tableside and guests were served one breast side per person. So, we passed. We also passed on the Chicken Poached with Black Truffles (2010) since we’ve had chicken in various permutations over the years. (Note: My first photo of that chicken was taken on May 6, 2011.)

9th Course: Suckling Pig Confit with Rhubarb, Leeks and Cipollini Onion (2002)
DH: “[It] was the first really important dish in my career. I started working on it back in Switzerland and along with the foie gras torchon with maple, it played a big role in my working at Eleven Madison Park. It became hugely popular, so much so we developed an entire suckling pig menu around it.”

June 8, 2017

The first time we saw the suckling pig confit on the menu was sometime in 2008 at one of our lunches. Michael ordered it. Other than bacon, I was not much of a pork lover. But I did taste it and found it to be delicious. We took to describing it as upscale pulled pork. We attended that Suckling Pig Dinner. The various courses Chef Humm created showed me how delicious pork can be. We chose the suckling pig because we haven’t had it since that dinner.

April 23, 2009 (The Suckling Pig Dinner)

10th Course: Milk and Honey with Dehydrated Milk Foam and Bee Pollen (2010)
DH: “When growing up, my mom and I would come together just before bed to make warm milk and honey. Over the years it became a moment for us to pause with each other, reflect, and talk about the events of the day – ultimately transitioning into a ritual that was so incredibly impactful, it became the inspiration behind one of the most popular desserts ever at Eleven Madison Park. …[It] has evolved numerous times and sparked the NoMad’s version (as well as the soft serve at Made Nice)….”

June 8, 2017

The first time we had it, it was a pre-dessert.

June 8, 2010 (Our Anniversary)

It was a full-fledged dessert five years later.

October 24, 2015 (My Birthday)

11th Course: Chocolate Palette with Peanut Butter and Popcorn Ice Cream (2008)
DH: “This dessert had its origin before we had a pastry chef and I was overseeing all the desserts. Playing off classice (and delicious) flavors of chocolate and peanut butter, we added a unique thing – popcorn ice cream. The saltiness played really nicely with the chocolate and peanut butter and this dessert was extremely popular. The palette was sort of a signature dessert….”

June 8, 2017

August 31, 2009

Mignardises (2007)
DH: “Back when we were trying to earn our fourth star, we looked at all the four star restaurants in the city and noticed they had certain things in common, like ending their meals with a large plate of mignardises. This led us to create our own version.”

June 8, 2017

September 16, 2011

What with this being the next to the last day of service, the dining room being packed, and tables being turned even at 10 p.m., we presumed there would not be a kitchen visit. When we’d finished the desserts and it hadn’t happened that seemed to confirm it. Thus, we were totally surprised when at that point, Sheryl Heefner came to our table and asked us to accompany her there. Sheryl had very recently left the g.m. position at Union Square Café. She did at one time work at EMP, which is how we first met her, and was back temporarily. We actually found out about all this when we had dinner at USC the night before. She’s one of the loveliest people we know, so it was great to see her.

Although Chef Humm was in the house (more on that anon), Chef de Cuisine Dmitri was at the pass. Visiting the kitchen gave us the opportunity to chat with him and thank him for the exquisite meal. He is now out in the Hamptons helming the kitchen at Summer House, so we’re looking forward to seeing him there.

The cocktail we were served was prepared by none other than the Executive Pastry Chef himself, Mark Welker, with Sheryl assisting. Did that make us feel special? You bet!!

June 8, 2017

We’d had this cocktail a number of times previously.

January 14, 2012

A couple of other highlights….

When we were first seated, I glanced over to the table immediately adjacent to ours. There were two men seated there, one of whom I immediately recognized: Gramercy Tavern’s Chef Michael Anthony. We often end up chatting with whoever is seated at that table, and this turned out to be no different. Not only is he talented, but Chef Anthony is one of nicest people in the restaurant world. It was fun chatting off and on with him and his dining companion who, we later learned, is his brother-in-law (they married sisters) and is involved in the wine industry.

Early during dinner, Will Guidara came to our table to extend his best wishes. After hugs and smooches, he turned to Chef Anthony and said, ”Any other time, you’d be the most important person in the room. But when the Rappaports are in the house, they’re royalty!” We all burst out laughing. What a guy!

Finally, on our way out, Chef Humm was standing near the reception area. He’d been in and out of the dining room all evening, stopping at tables to greet guests. He had just stopped at ours when he was called away to take care of something in the kitchen. Apologizing, he rushed off. Now, we had the chance to tell him how much we enjoyed the retrospective menu and how perfect every dish was. He thanked us for all the years of support we’d given especially during the early difficult period. “You were always there for us,” he said. Though he’s mentioned our enduring support before, that evening, his words seemed particularly heartfelt.

Our sincerest thanks to everyone in our Eleven Madison Park family for all they did to make this another memorable anniversary celebration! When EMP reopens and we once again walk through those revolving doors, there will be a completely renovated kitchen, a re-designed dining room, different furnishings, and a new menu. But what will never change is their striving for the kind of extraordinary cuisine, warm hospitality,and overall excellence that this year earned them the recognition as the Number One restaurant in the world. As we so often tell them but are always happy to repeat, to us they have been and always will be Number One!

The entire photo set which includes the wine pairings can be seen on my Flick here.

Congratulations to Our Eleven Madison Park Family on Being Number One on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants List!

Dear Daniel, Will, Billy, Dmitri, and the entire EMP staff,

You did it! From last year’s third spot, you skipped over number two and went directly to the top! It reminds us of how you went from one Michelin star directly to three, something few if any restaurants have ever done. Nice habit!

We are beyond elated that you’ve achieved this pinnacle of world-wide recognition capping a long string of very well deserved accolades. As Will said in accepting this award, it is an affirmation of the hard work you all do every day to make dining at Eleven Madison Park a glorious and extraordinary experience.

To us, you always have been and always will be Number One! Now, the restaurant world agrees. You are THE BEST!

Chef Daniel Humm and Will Guidara, Co-Owners of EMP

5-Day Birthday Dining Extravaganza (Part 6): Dinner at Eleven Madison Park

After having a night-before-my-birthday dinner at Mamma Guidara’s and a birthday lunch at NoMad, we completed the Made Nice trifecta with dinner at Eleven Madison Park. It’s where we always celebrate our special occasions. Most of our monthly visits to EMP are at lunch. However, for our anniversary and birthdays, we always do dinner. And so at 8 p.m., on Monday, October 24th, we pushed through the revolving doors and entered the gorgeous Art Deco room. I know I’ve said this before, but no matter how often we go to EMP, we’re always excited to be there, and the staff is excited to have us there. But we feel a heightened sense of excitement when we’re celebrating a special occasion.

Arriving at our table, I immediately spotted this beautiful hand-drawn card created by the very talented Emily Parkinson.

The interior is at the top of this post. The lovely message and so many of the staff signing gave me a huge case of the warm and fuzzies.

Elizabeth was our captain for the evening while Sommelier John Ross saw to our beverage needs. It’s always great fun having them take care of us. After we discussed menu choices with Elizabeth, John wheeled over the Champagne cart.

It being a celebratory occasion, Michael had his favorite Champagne.

John knows what I like, so my favorite Non-Alcoholic French Sparkling Cider was also on the cart.

As always, our first bites were of the signature cookies which are already on the tables when guests are seated.

Black & White Cookies with Apple & Cheddar

The meal began with a quartet of Hors d’Oeuvres brought to the table by one of the chefs.

Hors d’Oeuvres Tower

The chef disassembled the tower which then becomes four interlocking sections each holding a different hors d’oeuvre connected by a theme: Mushrooms.

Tarte with Black Truffle

Hen of the Woods with Amaranth and Horseradish

Pickled with Apple and Shallot

Beignet with Black Truffle

The Caviar course was next. It’s Chef Humm’s upscale take on Eggs Benedict.

Caviar Benedict with Potato, Leek, and Hollandaise

I don’t eat caviar, so I got this not exactly shabby substitution.

Black Truffle Benedict with Parsnip and Hollandaise

Accompaniment for the Benedicts. Look out, Thomas’s!

House Made English Muffins

Next up: Foie Gras! We had the option of choosing hot or cold. While I generally prefer hot, I’ve found that at EMP, I like the torchons better. And Michael always prefers cold. This one had us both swooning.

Foie Gras Marinated with Plum & Cocoa

At this point, the House Made Rolls arrived along with the Amagansett Sea Salt. However, instead of the usual house made cultured butter, there was something quite different to spread on the rolls: Honey Nut Squash with Sage and Cinnamon that was mixed at the table with some other ingredients.

While it was tasty, I have to be honest and say I much prefer the butter.

For the fish course, we were given a choice between lobster and striped bass. We both chose the latter.

Striped Bass Poached with Fennel and Clams

The vegetable course was Celery Root. Previously, it had been prepared “en vessie.” This time, there was a brand new preparation expertly finished tableside by Elizabeth.

Celery Root en Croûte with Black Truffle

Michael likes to have at least one beer pairing, so John paired this beer with the celery root.

When one of the reception staff arrives at our table mid-meal, we know that it’s Kitchen Visit time! This time, it was Matt who escorted there. When we’re celebrating a special occasion, the kitchen is often the place where we will be greeted with a surprise. Even knowing this, we’ve given up trying to figure out what it might be. And damn it! They do always manage to surprise us!

We walked in and saw that they’d removed the high-top table and replaced it with a table for two. There were place settings and wine glasses which held pours of – GASP! – Château d’Yqem.

After we sat down, Chef de Cuisine Dmitri Magi brought over this.

OMG! Yes, a gigantic White Truffle!

Two plates were set in front of us holding a composition Dmitri had created especially for us.

Ris de Veau, Cauliflower, and Almond

Dmitri spooned on some sauce.

Now, the idea was, of course, for the white truffles to be shaved on top. Next thing I knew, Dmitri handed me the truffle and said, “You do it!”

Well, folks, let me tell you that was no easy task. What took me totally by surprise was that the truffle was not anything like the mushrooms I’m used to cooking with. This baby was hard! Like baseball hard. My first attempt didn’t go well. Dmitri retrieved the truffle, made some adjustments to the shaver, and shaved a few truffles. He made it look so easy!

He handed the truffle and shaver back to me. It still wasn’t easy — you have to put some muscle into it — but I finally managed to get some decent shavings on Michael’s plate.

Dmitri added a lot more and then rained truffles onto my plate.

Dmitri’s creation by itself would have been sensational. Covered with a blanket of white truffles, it was orgasmic! John Ross knows that sweet wine is the one type of wine I like, and you can’t do much better than Château d’Yquem which also happens to be Michael’s favorite sweet wine. Overall, perfection!

We toddled back to our table basking in the glow of the fantastic surprise. The flatware for our next course had already been laid. It included our engrave knives (a gift from EMP for our 45th anniversary) which signaled that the main course would be served.

The choices were venison or Chef Humm’s signature duck. Michael chose the venison but since I don’t care for it, I had the duck.

Duck Honey and Lavender Glazed with Turnip & Huckleberry

Two sides served family style:

Black Radish and Spelt Dumplings

The Cheese Course was an oldie but goodie.

Cheddar Tart with Apple and Mixed Greens

Approaching the meal’s denouement, we chose different desserts. From the photos, you won’t have to guess which was dessert was Michael’s and which was mine.

Pear Sorbet with Caramelized White Chocolate & Riesling

Chocolate Tuile with Crème Fraïche Ice Cream and Mulled Wine

John went a little overboard with the pairings.

Our usual Siphon Coffee was prepared by Whitney Boyer, one of the dining room managers.

Michael always enjoys ending with Laird’s Apple Brandy.

For some time, we’ve been having the Chocolate Pretzels with Sea Salt and the “Name Your Milk” game packed to go. Also in the bag were the take-home gift House Made Granola, menus, and a Birthday Bonbon.

It was a truly magical evening. Outstanding cuisine, spot on pairings, exceptional service, and a memorable surprise. Couldn’t ask for anything more. Plus, we were surrounded by our terrific EMP family. I sincerely appreciate everything they did to make it an unforgettable birthday celebration.

To see the entire photo set for this dinner click here.

Here are the links for previous birthday extravaganza posts: Part 1, Part 2, Part 3. The links to Parts 4 and 5 are in the first paragraph of this post.

Eleven Madison Park/NoMad/Made Nice Holiday Gift 2016

It’s that time of year. Once again, those endlessly creative folks at Eleven Madison Park, NoMad and the soon-to-be open Made Nice have put together a fabulous holiday gift.

It arrived on our NJ doorstep on December 3rd. As you can see, there were 24 boxes. Since the instructions said we should open a box each day until the eve of the 24th (which happened to be both the first night of Chanukah and Christmas Eve) and it was now the 3rd, we immediately opened boxes 1, 2, and 3.

From then on, we opened one box each evening after dinner up to the 13th.

On the 14th, we went into the city for several days leaving the boxes behind. When we came back on the 19th, we opened boxes 14 through 19 at once.

We then opened one box each evening on the 20th and 21st.

On the 22nd, we headed back to NYC in order to prepare and have our Chanukah dinner with Jen and Louis on the 24th. We opened boxes 22, 23, and 24 when we returned to NJ on the 25th.

I think you have to admit that they do, indeed, know how to “Make It Nice”!

To Daniel, Will, and the entire staff, our sincerest thanks for this incredible gift! But the true gift you give Michael and me is considering us members of the EMP/NoMad/Made Nice family. We look forward to seeing all of you often in 2017.

It’s My Birthday!

It’s going to be a Made Nice day!!

(Back in January) Celebrating Michael’s 75th Birthday at Eleven Madison Park

(Note: Yes, I know it’s 5 months late! But I figured I’d better get this up before we celebrate our anniversary in 4 days.)

On Tuesday, January 26th, at 8 p.m. sharp, we walked through Eleven Madison Park’s revolving doors. Happily, the previous weekend’s Blizzard of ’16 did not derail our celebration plans (unlike last year when what turned out to be the “snowstorm that wasn’t” made us scotch our plans at EMP for his 74th) though we did have to cancel a pre-celebration dinner on Saturday evening with Jen and Louis. Upon entering, we were greeted by Head Maitre d’ Justin Roller and the reception staff. Then Will Guidara appeared to welcome us and as the others had done wished Michael a “Happy 75th!” We happened to run into Will the previous evening when we were having drinks in The Library at The NoMad before dinner there, so his showing up at EMP wasn’t as much of a surprise as it might have been. Nevertheless, it’s always a pleasure to see him especially since these days it happens so rarely.

Our excitement that evening was further heightened by the fact that it was the first time we would be having the winter menu as well as the new format. In December, Will and Chef Daniel Humm had announced that they would be reducing the 14-course menu to between 7 and 9. As for what else our EMP family had planned for this celebratory evening – and they always surprise us with something! – well, we’d have to wait and see. As will you, so stick with me!

Our captain for the evening was Elizabeth who has a very upbeat personality and always does a splendid job. She explained that some of the courses would have choices, others not.

Michael started with Krug, his favorite Champagne, and I had my favorite French Sparkling Cider. Michael had wine pairings during the meal while I had more cider.

As usual, the first bite of the evening was the Black & White Cookies with Cheddar and Apple.

There was no choice for the first two courses though they did, as usual, make accommodations with regard to things I won’t eat: Oyster Poached and Raw (on the right) with Chestnut Velouté and for me, Sunchoke Hot and Cold (on the left) with Velouté.

The next course has been on the menu since early last year: Caviar Benedict with Egg, Potato, and Ham and for me
(since I don’t eat caviar) Black Truffle Benedict with Egg, Potato, and Ham. Accompanied by made in-house English Muffins.

The ever popular house made Rolls served. They were accompanied by something new: house made Cultured Butter with Cheese. And, as always, Amagansett Sea Salt.

The foie gras course was next. As always, there was a choice between hot and cold. I chose hot while Michael chose cold: Foie Gras Seared with Maple and Apple and Foie Gras Marinated with Maple and Apple. A special roll was served with the cold foie.

The wine pairing for the foie was this Sauternes:

Next was the fish course where there was a choice of lobster or black bass. We both chose the bass. Black Bass Seared with Black Radish and Sesame.

Wine pairing with the black bass: Gorvia

Celery Root Braised with Black Truffle is another course that’s been on the menu since last year. It’s prepared “en vessie”, i.e., in a pig’s bladder. Previously, one of the sous chefs brought the pig’s bladder to the table, basted it, and then took it back to the kitchen for the dish to be plated. Now, there’s a change. While the pig’s bladder is still brought out, basting, cutting open the bladder and finishing the plating are done tableside by a member of the front of the house staff. As you can see, Tina did a masterful job!

The wine pairing was this Bandol from the Coravin list.

When the flatware for the next course includes our engraved knives, we know it’s time for the main protein.

There were three choices for this course: Chef Humm’s signature duck, pork cheek, and mushroom. Since we’d not had it in quite a while we both chose Duck: Honey and Lavender Dry Aged with Salsify and Pear.

To go along with the main course, something new has been added — two sides served family style: Potato Confit with Potato Purée and Butternut Squash Roasted with Thyme + Squash Custard.

The wine pairing was this Barolo from the Coravin list.

When the main plates have been cleared and one of the maître d’s shows up at our table, we know precisely what that means. It’s kitchen visit time! On this occasion, it was Zach who escorted us there. Now, it’s in the kitchen that most – though not all — of the birthday and anniversary surprises have occurred. And even though we knew that something special was afoot, still, we were totally unprepared for what did happen.

Walking through the service area, there were shouts from staff members of “Happy Birthday!” Then, the moment we appeared in the doorway of the kitchen, the entire kitchen staff and front of the house personnel who were there stopped what they were doing and began clapping. This applause continued for what seemed like a long time. Stunned would be an enormous understatement! It was a lovely way to honor Michael on this milestone birthday.

The guest table was festooned with a banner and decorations plus a party hat for each of us, all of which was created by the very talented Christine. Zach snapped a photo of us…

Chef Shante prepared Maple Snow on a stick…

Michael put his party hat on (I don’t do hats)…

And there was a gift: pocket handkerchiefs.

So, now we’re thinking this was it. No more surprises. Well, silly us!

When we returned to our table, the next course arrived: Cheddar Tart with Apple and Bacon Marmalade accompanied by a serve-it-yourself Green Salad.

There was no pre-dessert, so from here it was directly on to dessert. I had seen, via someone’s tweet, that the Baked Alaska was back, its popularity very much in evidence on many tables. I also knew that there were other options however, Elizabeth didn’t tell us what they were. I guess that should have tipped us off that something was up. But… Surprise! Surprise! G.M. Billy Peelle wheeled over a table holding four whole pies!

Now, there is a story behind this which I talked about in this previous post. But for those of you too lazy to click over there…. For the past two Thanksgivings, we’ve been going to both betony and EMP. At betony, they end that meal with a variety of fantastic pies which we raved about at EMP, suggesting they do the same. At last year’s Thanksgiving, they told us they are going to do it at this year’s Thanksgiving. Well, obviously, they decided not to make us wait that long!

So, there they were, baked by Executive Pastry Chef Mark Welker and looking scrumptious: Apple, Sweet Potato, Pecan, and Coconut Meringue. The object, as explained to us by Billy, was for us to have some right there and then to take all of them home. As generous as that was, it posed a small problem. There was no way we could fit four pies in our apartment’s frig. So, we decided we’d eat a pieces of each pie, take home a quarter of each pie, and leave the rest for the staff to enjoy.

The slices they served us were not exactly tiny.

And there was, of course, a wine pairing.

We were stuffed! So, we asked Elizabeth to doggie bag the end-of-meal chocolate treats.

The package also included two birthday bonbon and three jars of granola!

And let’s not forget the pies! We left loaded with EMP-embossed carry bags!

What a glorious evening! A simple “Thank you!” seems totally inadequate considering the lengths to which the EMP staff went to make Michael’s 75th birthday a celebration to remember. They are truly a group – a family – of very special people. And we feel flattered and grateful that they consider us members of that family.

To see the entire photo set of this celebration dinner, click here.

New Year’s Eve 2015 at Eleven Madison Park

For the first time in five years, we were not at home on New Year’s Eve having our annual beef fondue and listening to the Classical Countdown on WQXR.* Michael will be 75 at the end of January, so he decided he wanted to start his next quarter century by celebrating New Year’s Eve with our EMP family (which is where we went five years ago). We reserved for the second seating and arrived at 9 p.m. sharp.

The second seating was fully booked (as had been the first). Beautiful white floral arrangements and balloons gave the gorgeous space an especially festive feel. Music – jazz during dinner and later what would I think would be called popular rock — was provided by a terrific 5-piece band and a songstress.

The menu was a 7-course tasting. There were a few familiar things on it but most of the dishes were new. And since the kitchen is aware of what I won’t eat, they were prepared to make a couple of adjustments for me. Michael did the wine pairings which, as you will see, were incredible.

Michael started with what has become his favorite cocktail: “Satan’s Circus.” I requested a glass of my favorite French Sparkling Cider.

The usual Black & White Cookies with Cheddar and Apple were already on the table when we were seated.

Michael had planned not to begin the meal with Champagne instead intending to have a half bottle of Krug on his birthday. However, during a discussion with Sommelier John Ross about pairings, John suggested that Michael have a “splash” of Champagne with the first couple of dishes, a sweet wine with the foie gras (I drink sweet wine, so I said I’d have it too), a white for the lobster and the mushroom, and then a red with the beef.

Well, here’s John’s idea of a “splash” of Champagne. LOL!

Smoked Sturgeon Sabayon with Chive Oil is a longtime favorite and has become a Daniel Humm signature.

1st Course: Oyster Gelée with Potato and Leeks

Since I don’t care for oysters, I was served Potato and Black Truffle.

2nd Course: Caviar Benedict with Eggs and Ham

I don’t eat caviar, so in my Benedict, the caviar was replaced with Black Truffles!

Accompaniment for the Benedict: English Muffins.

At this point, the usual House Made Rolls were served along with Cow’s Milk Butter and Amagansett Sea Salt.

3rd Course: Foie Gras Terrine with Sunchoke and Onion

The wine pairing for the foie totally blew us away! Château d’Yquem 1987! I suppose we shouldn’t have been surprised considering that it was New Year’s Eve. But what also stunned us was the bottle size, a Methuselah, which we’d never seen before. Well, not in person.

4th Course: Lobster Poached with Cauliflower and White Truffle

5th Course: Hen of the Woods Mushoom Roasted with Horseradish

The pairing for these two courses – both of which, you will note, included white truffles — was a Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2004 which also arrived in a Methuselah.

The arrival of our Engraved Knives announced that the main protein was about to be served.

6th Course: Dry Aged Ribeye and Braised Oxtail, Potato, and Black Truffle

The Pat LeFrieda beef was aged 140 days.

Paired with the beef, the Flaccianello Della Pieve 2004 was decanted from the Methuselah.

7th Course: Chocolate Ganache with Bourbon and Honey Ice Cream

At the end of all EMP meals, Chocolate Pretzels with Sea Salt (though they normally hang from a little stand).

The clock had been ticking away and, at this point, we were just a few minutes away from midnight. The captains came to the table with glasses of Champagne to toast the New Year and silver-colored tubes which we discovered when blown into released confetti.

John Ross and Wine Director Cedric Nicaise climbed up on the divider in front of the bar area holding bottles of Champagne. Everyone counted down the minutes, and at the stroke of midnight, they popped the corks.

As is the EMP custom, Chef de Cuisine Chris Flint, Executive Sous Chef Dmitri Nagi, and the entire kitchen staff had come into the dining room for the countdown.

On the divider, there were now tiered trays holding assorted goodies, including macarons, and servers circulated with trays of black and white truffle balls.

The band was stationed on the upper level, and a space had been cleared for dancing. After midnight, many of the guests left their tables to walk around. Some took to the dance floor, including Michael and me!

Exquisite cuisine, phenomenal wines, a great band and, of course, being with our EMP family made New Year’s Eve 2015 a truly memorable event.

*Note: When we left our apartment, the Classical Countdown was in the middle of Number 6: the complete Brandenburg Concertos. No surprise to later find out that Number 1 was Beethoven’s 9th Symphony. In fact, this year it was all-Beethoven in the top three slots with the 5th at Number 2 (up from last year’s Number 5) and the 7th at Number 3 (same as last year). Dvorak’s 9th Symphony, From the New World, also maintained its Number 4 rank. Well, at least Holst’s The Planets dropped from last year’s Number 2 (Ridiculous!) to Number 7. Still way too high in my not-so-humble opinion.


Eleven Madison Park Gets Into the Takeout Game, Joining Peers

Michelin three-star restaurant Eleven Madison Park has joined a growing list of high-end establishments in New York to offer takeout and delivery services for the first time, as the hospitality industry as a whole continues to bounce back from the Covid-19 pandemic.

The restaurant’s “EMP To Go,” a dinner kit that consists of a ready-to-cook Green Circle chicken with sides, and a dessert prepared by chef Daniel Humm, will be available for pickup at six locations throughout the New York metro area starting Thursday, Oct. 22, according to its website. Consumers can order in advance at Tock for pickup or home delivery.

In addition to the flagship restaurant at 11 Madison Avenue, the other five locations for pickup include Brooklyn’s Grand Army Plaza Montclair, N.J. Bedford, Westchester Greenwich, Conn. and East Hampton, N.Y.

The kit costs $275. With each order, Eleven Madison Park will provide 10 meals for the needy through Rethink, a food charity Humm helped found.

The pick-up offerings are an ongoing initiative leading up to the restaurant's reopening. It will also offer special holiday-themed dinner sets for Thanksgiving and Christmas, the restaurant tells Penta.

Although New York City has the Open Restaurants Program, which allows restaurants in the city to extend seating onto streets, sidewalks, and public spaces, and indoor dining is permitted as long as it’s within 25% of capacity, challenges remain, with some patrons hesitant to dine inside even as cold weather looms.

Eleven Madison Park, famous for its multiple-course tasting menus, remains shuttered, and it has yet to announce when it will once again take reservations for dining.

Since the pandemic hit, a growing list of more than 30 Michelin-starred restaurants in New York City and Westchester County, which tend to have long waiting lists, have offered takeout services for the first time, according to the Michelin Guide.

Other Michelin three-star restaurants offering takeout services include Chef's Table at Brooklyn Fare, and Masa, both of which are in Manhattan’s Midtown West.

At Masa, the most expensive sushi restaurant in the U.S., chef Masa Takayama is selling 20 boxes of sushi or sashimi each priced at $800 every Friday. Each box is meant to feed up to four people. The box is less expensive than a typical omakase at Masa, which runs $595 per person.

The takeout fare at Chef's Table features a three-course a la carte menu, which has included Alaskan King crab salad, Norwegian langoustine with garlic, braised beef cheeks, and green tea tiramisu. Entrees are priced at $38 and above. A two-day advanced order through Caviar is required.


The beautiful Eleven Madison Park cookbook

I have a large, ever growing cookbook collection. I also have a bookcase filled with heavy, glossy art and design books. I honestly don’t know which of these two piles the Eleven Madison Park cookbook belongs in. This book is an absolutely gorgeous large volume filled with beautiful photos of dishes that look like works of art. In my opinion, it definitely belongs in the art book category more than it belongs in the cookbook category. You don’t expect to be able to make all the dishes just like you don’t expect to start painting like Dalí when you buy a Dalí book. That being said, you might be able to reproduce a small sketch that Dalí might have made, just like there are several recipes in the book that can absolutely be made.

The beautiful photography inside the pages of the Eleven Madison Park cookbook

The beautiful photography inside the pages of the Eleven Madison Park cookbook

The beautiful photography inside the pages of the Eleven Madison Park cookbook

If you are a regular reader of this blog, then you must know by now that Eleven Madison Park is my favourite restaurant in the world. I have had the good fortune to eat there on several occasions and I always choose to go back whenever I visit NYC. This past year has been an incredible one for EMP. They have climbed up 26 spots in the San Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurant list, have won several James Beard Awards and have gathered 3-Michelin stars among many other accolades. Chef Daniel Humm and general manager Will Guidara have also bought the restaurant from restaurateur Danny Meyer and as if that wasn’t enough to keep the EMP team busy, they have also just published this gorgeous book, which has been in production for the past two years. Flipping through the Eleven Madison Park cookbook is truly like flipping through an art book. The colours and textures are reminiscent of an artist’s brush strokes and although you may think that the recipes are complicated, some of them seem very feasible from what I can guess by reading through them. They are however, time consuming since each plate requires several recipes. I have promised myself that if I ever find the time, I will make some of them. You can also of course omit certain steps and make a simpler final dish, as recommended by chef Humm himself at the beginning of the book. In the meantime, the collection of basic recipes at the back of the book is definitely one that can be easily explored. The pickles, dressings, purees, stocks, butters, doughs, crumbles and granolas, among many others, are there to be used in the book’s recipes but will also elevate any dish of your own and make it extraordinary. If there is one thing I’d want to voice a complain about when it comes to this book, it’s the fact that the recipes are in cups instead of grams. Other than that, it’s pretty much perfect.

As an ode to my favourite restaurant and as a token of appreciation to you my readers for all the support throughout this past year, I am giving away a copy of this beautiful book. All you have to do is leave a comment here, on my Facebook page or tweet me that you’d like the book. You have until Christmas day to participate! I will draw a name on December 26th then personally deliver the book to the winner so unfortunately, this is only open to people in Montreal.

Now, onto the recipe. I chose to share this particular one not only because it is simple to make but because it reminds me of my first lunch at EMP. The cheese gougères are always the first items to arrive at the table at EMP and I remember biting into one and knowing immediately that this meal I was about to have was going to be a very special one. They are best eaten while still warm but if you have to make them ahead of time, just be sure to warm them up in the oven before serving so they can crisp up again.

Gougère recipe from the Eleven Madison Park cookbook

Gougères (makes 32)
(Taken from the Eleven Madison Park book by Daniel Humm and Will Guidara)


Eleven Madison Park, The NoMad Announce Thanksgiving Menus - Recipes

I was in New York last weekend and for the first time in a long time, I didn’t do too much planning or make too many reservations. The only thing I knew for sure before leaving was that I was going to eat at The NoMad restaurant, the latest venture from chef Daniel Humm and general manager Will Gidara of Eleven Madison Park. I had seen photos online of the hotel and its several dining spaces and everything looked absolutely beautiful. It was no different when I got there. The spaces (atrium, bar, fireplace, library, parlour) are absolutely gorgeous, opulent and rich with dominant dark woods, plush upholstered seats and rich fabrics.

Some of The NoMad’s gorgeous rooms

I took a quick walk around the spaces before sitting down for lunch. Some of my favourite rooms include the dimly lit bar decorated in dark wood with carved elephants holding up the shelves of colourful backlit bottles which made me want to order an absinthe for some strange reason. The library was also a favourite, with hundreds of books lining up 2 of its walls on two levels which makes it feel as if you’re wandering around an old medieval castle… or a movie set.

Hamachi, crudo with English peas, olio verde & horseradish

Egg poached with asparagus, quinoa & Parmesan

Trout, smoked with cucumber, buttermilk & rye

We were seated in the atrium, which had the most wonderful light shining through its glass roof and felt like a perfectly calm oasis in the middle of hectic New York City. We started by ordering some non-alcoholic cocktails from the very elaborate cocktail list.

The dishes are all based on creations by Daniel Humm for Eleven Madison Park but simplified and made more accessible for The NoMad. Make no mistake though, there’s nothing simple about the complex flavour combinations featured in every single dish we sampled at lunch that day. The plates are all gorgeous, colourful and beautifully arranged although we are far from the fine white porcelain dishes of EMP and into more casual ones with more texture and subtle neutral colours. Everything we had, from the duck to the scallops to the beef was delicious yet I am still feeling some lingering regret for not ordering the roasted chicken for 2 stuffed with foie gras, brioche and black truffles. We saw it go by and it looked absolutely amazing. It’s definitely on my list for my next visit.

Tagliatelle, king crab, Meyer lemon & black pepper

Scallops seared with sorrel, lemon & maitake mushrooms

Duck, roasted with fennel, peaches & pickled juniper

Beef, bone marrow-crusted with baby leeks & royal trumpet mushrooms

The service is the same kind of excellent service that you get at Eleven Madison Park, a perfect balance of courteous, polite, attentive yet unpretentious staff. I’ve often wondered how they manage to attain that level of service where you feel like a star yet it’s never stuffy or overbearing. It is also all the little extras that make a a dining experience at The NoMad so special, like the extra dessert brought to our table by our waiter because he thought we just had to try it or that box of biscotti brought over when I asked for a paper napkin to wrap my biscotto in to take with me…

The dessert cart is there to conclude the meal at lunch time. Oversized raspberry macarons, chocolate and lemon meringues tartelettes and kouign amann were some of the choices present when I was there. The desserts are plated tableside with a variety of accompanying creams and jams. Unfortunately, and in my humble opinion, they were just not at par with the food and my kouign amann was actually dry and not as buttery as it should have been.

The dessert cart at The NoMad

My only regret was not being able to order the tasting menu, which is only available at night. It features the “milk and honey” dessert which I was looking forward to tasting. I guess it just means that I will have to go back there on my next trip, although reservations are going to be harder from now on since The NoMad just obtained 3 stars from the New York Times on June 19.

It is also worth noting that they’ve just inaugurated their rooftop terrace which is open 7 nights a week and features a 5-course tasting menu. Tickets for the rooftop go on sale at 11 a.m. every day. For more details on that, head this way.

1170 Broadway & 28th Street
New York, NY 10001
+1 212 796 1500


Recipes

Bloom the gelatin*, if you are using it, by placing the sheets in a bowl of ice water for 10 minutes, until pliable. (If you are using vegetarian gelatin, soften in water according to directions.)In the meantime, reduce the butternut squash juice by half in a small saucepan over low heat.In a mixing bowl, whip the cream to soft peaks.Stir softened gelatin into the warm reduced butternut squash juice. (If you are using gelatin sheets, squeeze to remove excess moisture.) Remove from the heat and season with lime juice, salt and ginger. Strain through a chinois into a mixing bowl. Cool over ice, stirring constantly, until the mixture is just below room temperature. Do not allow the gelatin to begin setting.Fold the whipped cream in 3 parts into the butternut squash mixture and transfer to a whipped-cream canister. Charge the canister with the N2O cartridges and refrigerate until ready to use.

*Chef Humm notes that the recipe works fine without gelatin, though he adds gelatin at the restaurant so the mousse can hold up longer.

Roasted butternut squash

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.Halve the squash lengthwise and scoop out the seeds. Place the squash halves, cut side up, in a roasting pan. Using a brush, coat with olive oil and season with salt.Cover with aluminum foil and roast for 45 to 60 minutes, until tender. Cool to room temperature. Scoop out the flesh to yield 4 cups.

Butternut squash tuiles

Bring 8 cups water to a boil. Add the tapioca pearls and simmer for 30 to 35 minutes, until tender. Drain the tapioca and rinse under cold water.In a blender, blend 1 1/2 cups cooked tapioca with the Roasted Butternut Squash until smooth.Preheat oven to 200 degrees.Cut 32 rectangles of acetate, measuring 4 by 8 inches each. Using an offset spatula, thinly spread about 2 teaspoons of the tuile batter onto each sheet of acetate.Place the rectangles on a baking sheet and bake for 2 hours to dehydrate the tuiles. Cool to room temperature before removing the acetate.In a large saucepan, heat the oil to 325 degrees. Working quickly, fry the tuiles, one at a time, for 10 seconds. As you remove each tuile from the oil, immediately roll it around a copper tube measuring 1/2 inch in diameter and 3 inches in length to form a hollow cylinder. Drain off the excess oil and allow to cool. Remove the tube. Repeat this process until all 32 tuiles are fried and shaped. The tuiles can be kept in an airtight container for up to 6 hours.

Expel the mousse from the canister into a tuile until the tube is completely filled. Smooth the ends with a spatula and sprinkle each end with chopped chives. Repeat with the remaining ingredients, to make 32 crisps. Serve immediately after filling.

26kg duck carcasses, cut into 5cm pieces

227g szechuan peppercorns

227g dried coriander seeds

113g dried lavender flowers

Roastedducks

Compressedpeaches

3 very firm but ripe peaches

1 tbsp confectioners’ sugar

Fennel tears

Fennel andpotato purée

450g fennel, diced (1⁄4 inch)

450g la Ratte fingerling potatoes, peeled and diced (1⁄4 inch)

Method

Preheat the oven to 190c. line 2 large rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. spread the duck bones in a single layer on the baking sheets and roast the bones in the oven until golden brown, 1-1hour 15 minutes, turning the bones over once after 20 minutes. Melt the duck fat in a 22l stockpot over high heat. sautée the onions, carrots, celery, leeks and celery root in the duck fat until they caramelise, about 7-10 minutes. Add the tomato paste and sautée until caramelised, 5-7 minutes. Add the port and reduce by half. Add the redwine and reduce to syrup consistency. Make a sachet by tying the thyme, bay leaves,and peppercorns in cheesecloth. Add the chicken feet, carcass bones, and sachetto the stockpot and cover with the chicken stock. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and skim the stock of all impurities and fats that rise to the top. simmer, uncovered, over low heat for 5 hours, skimming every 30 minutes. strain through a fine-mesh chinois and reduce to 1l. strain again and chill over ice.

In a spice grinder, grind the szechuan peppercorns, coriander, and cumin until roughly ground. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the lavender flowers.

Roastedducks

Dry the ducks completely with paper towels. Use meat hooks to hang them by their necks in a refrigerator with good air circulation. Allow to age and dry for a minimum of 8 days anda maximum of 14 days. When ready to cook, preheat a convection oven to 190c. Remove and discard the neck, feet, and wing tips, and truss the ducks with butcher’s twine. Rub thoroughly with honey, being sure to coat all of the skin. season with salt, then coat evenly with the duck spice. Place on a roasting rack and roast for 8 minutes. Rotate the duck and return it to the oven for another 8-9 minutes. Remove from the oven, and rest for 12-15 minutes before carving.

Zest and juice the lemons, limes, and oranges. combine the juices in one bowland the zests in another. Place the sugarin a medium saucepan over medium heat. caramelise to a very deep amber colour. Add the star anise and the citrus juices to stop the cooking. Reduce by 3⁄4, or until thick and syrupy. Add the zest and butter and chill. in a separate pot, heat the duck jus and add 11⁄2 tablespoons of the citrus syrup. season with the vinegar and salt.

Compressedpeaches

Cut the peaches into quarters and slice each quarter into thin half-moons. Arrange the peaches in a sousVide bag and add the sauternes. Vacuum-seal and allow them to marinate. Remove them from the bag when ready to serve.

Peach confit

Preheat the oven to 93c. cut each peach into quarters. slice cut each quarter into 3 1⁄2-moons. You should have 12 wedges per peach. Dress with olive oil, lime juice, and salt. line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Arrange the wedges on the parchment and sprinkle with pepper and the confectioners’ sugar. Bake for 45 minutes.

Fennel tears

Pull apart the fennel petals and trim the tops and the bottoms to make even widths. cut them into 3.8ࡧ.9cm isosceles triangles. Using a paring knife, round of the bottoms to form tear shapes. Trim them to 1/8” thickness. combine the white wine, Pernod, star anise, fennel seeds, and lemon peel in a small saucepan over medium heat and reduce by half. Add 1⁄4 cup water and the salt. Place the Fennel Tears and 1⁄4 cup of the cooking liquid in a sousVide bag. Vacuum-seal and steam at 90c for 35 minutes. Transfer to a bowl of ice water. Once cool, remove the fennel tearsfrom the bag.

Fennel andpotato purée

Bring a saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the fennel fronds, cooking for a few seconds, until just wilted. Transfer to a bowl of ice water and, once cold, drain. Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the diced fennel and potatoes and sweat until soft andtranslucent, about 15 minutes. Add 2 1⁄2 cups water and simmer for 25 minutes. Purée the cooked fennel and potatoes in a blender until smooth. Blend in the blanched fennel fronds and season with the salt. Pass the purée through a fine-mesh tamis and chill over ice.

Warm the fennel and potato purée in a small saucepan over low heat. carve the breasts off of the roasted ducks. slice into even pieces and brush with brown butter and season with fleur de sel. Put 2 duck sliceson a plate. spoon the fennel and potato purée onto the plate and garnish with the compressed peaches and peach confit and the tears. Finish with the duck sauce. Repeat with the remaining ingredients, to serve 8.

1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon cream

1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon powdered milk

2 tablespoons glucose syrup

Honey-oatmeal crumble

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons butter, softened

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon flour

1/2 cup old-fashioned rolled oats

Honey brittle

Dehydrated milk foam

5 tablespoons glucose syrup

Method

In a small saucepan over medium-low heat, reduce 2 cups of the milk to 2/3 cup. Combine the reduced milk with the remaining ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth. Strain through a chinois then chill over an ice bath. Freeze the mixture in an ice cream machine. Note |store in the freezer for up to 1 month.

Honey-oatmeal crumble

Preheat the oven to 300°F. In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream together the butter, sugar, honey, salt, and vanilla. Add the flour, oats, and baking soda, mixing until just combined. Turn the dough out onto a piece of parchment paper and roll to 1/4 inch thick. Transfer to a rimmed baking sheet and bake until golden brown, about 15 minutes.Lower the oven temperature to 150°F and continue to dry for 30 minutes, checking the dough to make sure it does not get too dark. Cool to room temperature, and then break it into small pieces. store in an airtight container for up to 2 days.

Honey brittle

Line a 13 by 18-inch rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. In a medium straight-sided sauté pan bring the sugar, butter, honey, and 1/4 cup water to a boil. Cook over medium-high heat to a light caramel, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the salt and baking soda and mix well. pour the brittle in a thin layer onto the prepared baking sheet. Allow to cool completely to room temperature, and then break into small pieces. store in an airtight container for up to 2 days.

Dehydrated milk foam

Preheat the oven to 150°F. Line a 9 by 13-inch rimmed baking sheet with acetate or a silicone baking mat. In a medium saucepan, heat the milk and glucose to just under a boil. Remove from the heat and froth with a hand blender. With a large spoon, scoop the foam onto the prepared baking sheet, discarding any liquid. Dry in the oven for 8 to 9 hours. Allow the foam to cool, and then break it into small pieces. Store in an airtight container for up to 2 days.

Buckwheat honey place a small amount of the dehydrated milk foam, honey brittle, and honey-oatmeal crumble in each of 4 small bowls. Spoon a large quenelle of milk ice on top. Drizzle lines ofbuckwheat honey across the top of the quenelle.

Find out more about Chef Humm in our exclusive ‘FOURty Seconds’ interview.


Restaurants in Madison Square Park

NYC is exploding with fast-casual lunch spots with a decidedly healthy bent, from Chipotle and Chop’t to Sweetgreen and The Little Beet. And the newest entrant, Inday, attempts to add a little extra spice to a mix, by bringing an Indian edge to its assortment of salads, wraps and bowls…

British Invasion: Jason Atherton Debuts The Clocktower

Ding-dong, London calling! The highly anticipated Clocktower is officially open for business on Madison Avenue, headed by Michelin-starred British chef, Jason Atherton. Located in Ian Schrager’s brand new, super-swanky Edition Hotel, and in partnership with Philadelphia bigwig, Stephen Starr…

First Look at Mad. Sq. Eats’ Newest Vendors

Nothing says spring like New York’s al fresco food markets, opening once again for yet another sun and street eats-fueled season. And chief amongst them is UrbanSpace’s Mad. Sq. Eats, a tasty oasis wedged between the Flatiron building, Eataly, and the park…

Raising the Bar (Food) at The NoMad

French Fries. Hot Dogs. Burgers. While these are standard issue dishes when it comes to bar food or pub grub, you wouldn’t expect to find them in the utterly opulent The NoMad Hotel. Especially considering that the culinary programs offered in a series of rooms are overseen by EMP greats, Daniel Humm and Will Guidara. This is killer pub grub with a high end twist. Case in point: Chicken pot pie, laced with foie gras & truffes…

Q & A with Salvation Taco’s April Bloomfield

The term “Gastropub” gets thrown around pretty freely nowadays. It generally refers to bars that serve food far superior to the expected handful of beer nuts, meat pie, or run-of-the-mill burger. But the concept didn’t get much play outside of England until 2004, when British chef April Bloomfield burst onto the NYC scene with The Spotted Pig.

La Mar Cebicheria Peruana

If anyone knows how to do ceviche, it’s the Peruvians. Hailed as the “Jean-Georges of Peru,” Chef Gaston Acurio brings some serious culinary cred to the table, with 31 acclaimed restaurants in a dozen countries. You’ll have to overlook the gloomy decor and a few mediocre entrees, but the selection of ceviche (or cebiche as they call it) alone is worth a trip to this Washington Square Park newcomer.

Hill Country Chicken

What guy doesn’t crave comfort food? You know, the kind of that food that sticks to your ribs, so you have loosen your belt a little. Fried chicken is just one of those things that no man can deny himself. There’s something about a piece of fried chicken – golden brown and crispy on the outside, juicy and tender on the inside – that makes it ideal for a Sunday night feast with your buddies. And Hill Country Chicken is one of my favorite places to go in the city for a taste of crispy chicken goodness and they use extra-large, all-natural chickens to boot. Order a bucket to share with the table, either classic- or Mama Els-style (skinless), and pair it with a serious side of mac & cheese and fresh buttermilk biscuits. If you still have room for dessert.

The Roof at NoMad – The Trendy Date

We know how much people love trying new restaurants, so we think it’s smart to kill two birds with one stone: Take a date to a hip, new spot. (Even if you don’t like your date, you still tried a new spot.) The newly opened Rooftop at the NoMad Hotel is one of the hottest new openings and perfect for the occasion on many counts. Head up to the roof and you’ll find phenomenal, panoramic views of the city and a terrific ultra-seasonal cocktail menu. With the Eleven Madison Park team behind the hotels many menus, you know the food is going to be exceptional. Nibble on Radishes with Butter-Dipped Fleur De Sel or Salmon Rillettes and see how the night unfolds. If it’s looking good, stay for dinner and try the Strawberry Gazpacho, the Black Bass with Summer.

Eleven Madison Park

If you’re looking for a one-of-a-kind dining experience, consider Eleven Madison Park – a temple of haute French cuisine. With its vaulted ceilings, marble floors and sweeping views of Madison Park, the stunning art deco setting is reason enough to spend an evening here. Then, there’s the fact they won the James Beard award for Best restaurant in 2011 not to mention that Daniel Humm won best chef in the country just a few years ago.


Watch the video: Eleven Madison Park Vegan Tasting Menu June 2021 (June 2022).